Column
Manca wanted sleeves and had been told three times they would make her look like a lampshade. They will, if the gathering is even.
So it is not even. Each sleeve head carries about four hundred hand-run gathering stitches, packed at the shoulder point and released toward the seam, which is what gives the sleeve its lift on the outside and keeps it flat where the arm actually needs room.
Under the organza the dress is a plain habotai column with nothing on it at all. Two garments, one dress.